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the 1970s became less
common later on, and new elements were constantly added to the punk image. A
great deal of punk fashion from the 1970s was based on the designs of Vivienne
Westwood and Malcolm McLaren, as well as the dress styles of punk role models
such as the Ramones, Richard Hell and the Bromley Contingent. Punk style was
influenced by clothes sold in Malcolm McLaren's shop SEX. McLaren has credited
this style to his first impressions of Richard Hell while McLaren was in New
York City, supposedly managing the The New York Dolls (Note: In the documentary
Punk: Attitude, David Johansen said McLaren was never their manager, and that he
only designed clothes for them and booked them one concert; the Red Show.)
Enlarge picture
A French punk in 1981, wearing a customized blazer, as was popular in the early
punk scene
Deliberately offensive T-shirts were popular in the early punk scene, such as
the infamous DESTROY T-shirt sold at SEX, which featured an inverted crucifix
and a Nazi Swastika. These T-shirts, like other punk clothing items, were often
intentionally torn. Other items in early British punk fashion included: Anarchy
symbols; brightly-colored or white and black dress shirts randomly covered in
slogans (such as "Only Anarchists are pretty"); fake blood; patches; and
deliberately controversial images (such as portraits of Marx, Stalin and
Mussolini) were popular. Leather rocker jackets and customised blazers were
introduced early, and are still a common fixture of punk fashion.
Preferred footwear included military boots, motorcycle boots, Brothel creepers,
Chuck Taylor All-Stars, and (later on) Dr. Martens boots. Tapered jeans, tight
leather pants, pants with leopard patterns, and bondage trousers were popular
choices. Hair was cropped and deliberately made to look messy; in reaction to
the long smooth hairstyles that were common in the 1960s and early 1970s. Hair
was often dyed bright unnatural colors. Although provocative, these hairstyles
were not as extreme as later punk hairstyles, such as liberty spikes or the
Mohawk hairstyle.
Other accoutrements worn by some punks included: BDSM fashions; fishnet
stockings (sometimes ripped); spike bands and other studded or spiked jewelry;
safety pins (in clothes and as body piercings); silver bracelets and heavy
eyeliner worn by both men and women. Many female punks rebelled against the
stereotypical image of a woman by combining clothes that were delicate or pretty
with clothes that were considered masculine, such as combining a Ballet tutu
with big, clunky boots.
Punk clothing sometimes incorporated everyday objects for aesthetic effect.
Purposely-ripped clothes were held together by safety pins or wrapped with tape;
black bin liners (garbage bags) became dresses, shirts and skirts. Other items
added to clothing or as jewelry included razor blades and chains. Leather,
rubber and vinyl clothing have been common, possibly due to their connection
with transgressive sexual practices, such as bondage and S&M.
Punks in the 1970s sometimes flaunted taboo symbols such as the Nazi Swastika or
Iron Cross for shock effect. However, following Rock Against Racism, this
sharply declined. To this day, most punks are staunchly anti-fascist, and many
punks in the 2000s wear a crossed out Swastika patch (pictured left) or other
anti-racist symbols.
1980s
Enlarge picture
UK punks displaying elements of early and 1980s punk fashions, circa 1986
Enlarge picture
Henry Rollins of Black Flag, displaying hardcore anti-fashion
When punk underwent its 1980s hardcore, Oi!/streetpunk and UK82 renaissance, new
fashion styles developed as parallel resurgences occurred in the United States
and United Kingdom. The US scene was exemplified by bands such as Black Flag,
Minor Threat, and Fear. The 1980s American scene spawned a utilitarian
anti-fashion that was nonetheless raw, angry, and intimidating. In the UK, much
of the punk music and fashion in the 1980s was influenced by heavy metal and the
Oi! scene. However, elements of the 1970s punk look never fully died away. What
many recognize as typical punk fashions today emerged from the 1980s British
scene, exemplified by bands such as The Exploited, Charged GBH, and The
Partisans. Some of the following clothing items were common on both sides of the
Atlantic Ocean, and some were unique to certain geographic areas.
Footwear that was common in the 1980s punk scene included Dr. Martens boots,
motorcycle boots and steel-toed combat boots; sometimes adorned with bandanas,
chains or studded leather bands. Jeans (sometimes dirty, torn or splattered with
bleach) and tartan kilts or skirts were commonly worn. Leather skirts became a
popular item for female punks. Heavy chains were sometimes used as belts. Bullet
belts, and studded belts (sometimes more than one worn at a time) became common.
Some punks bought T-shirts or plaid flannel shirts and wrote political slogans,
band names or other punk-related phrases on them with marker pens. While this
was not without precedent in the 1970s, the depth and detail of these slogans
were not fully developed until the 1980s. Silkscreened T-shirts with band logos
or other punk-related logos or slogans were also popular. Studded, painted and
otherwise customised leather rocker jackets or denim vests became more popular
during this era, as the popularity of the earlier customized blazers waned. Hair
was either shaved, spiked or in a crew cut or Mohawk hairstyle. Tall mohawks and
spiked hair, either bleached or in bright colors, took on a more extreme
character than in the 1970s. Charged hair, in which all of one's hair stands on
end but is not styled into distinct spikes, also emerged. Amongst female punks,
a hairstyle similar to The Misfits' devilocks was popular. This involved shaving
the entire head except for a tuft at the front. Body piercings and extensive
tattoos became very popular during this era, as did spike bands and studded
chokers. Sometimes bandana were worn to indicate gang affiliation. Some hardcore
punk women reacted to the earlier 1970s movement's vibe by adopting an asexual
style.
Contemporary
Enlarge picture
Punks at a music festival
Current factions of the punk subculture have different clothing habits, although
there's often crossover between the different subgroups, in terms of style. Punk
fashion has influenced elements of many other similar fashions, most notably
heavy metal fashion. One of the few elements in every form of punk fashion is a
t-shirt with a band logo on it .
Punk clothing in general has always been based around an anti-fashion DIY-ethic.
The term "Punk Fashion" is in fact an oxymoron. Screen-printing, stenciling and
painting ones own clothes, is almost a philosophy in itself, relating to
anti-commercialism of clothing, and also expression of ones views by painting
them on ones shirt. An idea immortalised in the phrase "Like trousers, like
brain."
Standard punk
In general, modern punks wear leather, denim, spikes, chains, and combat boots.
They often wear elements of early punk and hardcore fashion, such as kutten
vests , bondage pants (often plaid) and torn clothing. There is a large
influence by DIY-created and modified clothing, such as ripped pants or shirts.
Hair is typically dyed in bright colors such as red, blue, green, pink or orange
and arranged into a mohawk or liberty spikes. Hair can be cut very short or
shaved, but this does not necessarily mean the individual is a skinhead. Belts
with metal studs, and bullet belts, are popular. Leather or denim jackets and
vests often have patches or are painted with logos that express musical tastes
or political views. Pants are usually tapered tightly. Metal spikes or studs are
often added to jackets and vests.
Hardcore
There are several styles of dress within the hardcore scene, and styles have
changed since the genre started as hardcore punk in the late 1970s. What is
fashionable in one branch of the hardcore scene may be frowned upon in another.
Clothing styles are often chosen to make moshing easier to perform. Plain
working class dress and short hair (with the exception of dreadlocks) are
usually associated with hardcore punk. Mute colors and minimal adornment are
usually common. Some elements of hardcore clothing are baggy jeans or work
pants, athletic wear, bandanas (usually worn hanging out of their back pocket),
cargo or military shorts, band T-shirts, plain T-shirts, and plain hoodies. Some
hardcore bands and fans wear clothing items that are similar to contemporary or
old school hip hop fashion, such as baseball caps, athletic wear and shoes,
necklaces, belt buckles, and clothing by athletic brands such as Nike, Adidas,
Pony, and Puma. Personal comfort and the ability to mosh are highly influential
in this style (Jewelry, spikes, tight clothes, flashy hair and chains are highly
uncommon and discouraged in
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